Solar Water Heater build 8

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http://texasnaturalbuilders.info – Final temp test and we topped out at 115.9 degrees!! after 20 mins of sun in the evening! Tomorrow Scott will be testing t…

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25 Responses to Solar Water Heater build 8

  1. awesome dude; I know you want to leave the back silver but It will reflect
    the heat back to the atmosphere. By painting it black to your absorbing
    more heat in a small area thus hotter water, trust me do a test and let me
    know you should get at least 10 more degrees…… LATER FROM THE WEST COAST

    doug daniels
    May 25, 2014 at 10:07 am
    Reply

  2. I’m doing a project similar to this but it’s in an insulated box. How can I
    use only gravity to build enough pressure to fill the copper tubing (it
    will be wound, not soldered in my case) with water? thanks

    Mcplumpyboy
    May 25, 2014 at 10:23 am
    Reply

  3. somewhat similar yes, too bad that dr, stinky doesn’t show more info on how
    he made it and temperatures, his system uses small 1/4″ flexible copper
    also, his system might hold 1/2 a gallon, mine holds about 2 gallons. my
    system also will be insulated and in an enclosed panel with a glass over
    boosting the temperature.

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 11:18 am
    Reply

  4. Hi, have you tested what the temp would be while the incoming water is
    coing thru the copper system? like can you take a shower without it going
    cold after running incoming water thru it…thanks

    Kevin Chedivillie
    May 25, 2014 at 12:16 pm
    Reply

  5. @verybigego the highest temp so far was 140 degrees, that more than any
    person can handle!!

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 12:43 pm
    Reply

  6. …they are replaced on these trucks every few years an a cost sweet f a to
    buy …….second hand 50 $

    o0donnie0o
    May 25, 2014 at 1:10 pm
    Reply

  7. @GreenSolarGarden this system wouldn’t be a direct use one, it is tied into
    a storage tank that uses the thermo-siphon technique to continually heat
    water through this manifold, the water you would use comes from the storage
    tank itself. The system I am working on now uses a glycol solution in place
    of the water and a coiled copper heat transfer inside the storage tank. I
    wish I could find a welder/fabricator that would help me create a tank with
    a removable heat transfer coil.

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 1:57 pm
    Reply

  8. @Mcplumpyboy I would keep it copper just because but I would suppose any
    thing would work as long as it was insulated, you could do either PVC or
    cPVC with insulating sleeves over them, key is to no loose heat!!

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 2:33 pm
    Reply

  9. @o0donnie0o, I use a 80 gallon water heater tank to store the hot water in,
    I have been tinkering with removing all the water form this system and
    using a Glycol solution in its place and coiling soft copper rolls around a
    stripped 60 gallon tank, and allowing the thermal siphon effect control the
    flow of the mixture, making it a closed loop heat transfer system instead
    of direct use until theres no more hot water, its a work in progress I will
    be posting more vids very soon!!!

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 2:40 pm
    Reply

  10. @magna59 isnt it funny that no matter what aperson does to create a system
    that working extremely well, another DOUCHE comes along and tries to walk
    all over it……. All I can say is I enjoy my creation and it does what I
    need, good luck with yours…

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 3:17 pm
    Reply

  11. You should be using a cup to catch the water. Drops cool as they fall, not
    a true reading.

    johnnnyreb51
    May 25, 2014 at 3:58 pm
    Reply

  12. @TheDudeRulez09 what type of tubing would you recommend to connect to the
    copper tubing and water source?

    Mcplumpyboy
    May 25, 2014 at 4:26 pm
    Reply

  13. dear TheDudeRulez09 very much appriciated you friendly reaction.. and even
    more you plans of showing the entire installation looking forward to your
    future instructions and many thanks again even in advance I think you will
    give a lot of good of worthy and valuable advices again an help a lot of
    poeple to get there own efficient setups done. thanks again storhnz

    storhnz
    May 25, 2014 at 5:08 pm
    Reply

  14. Thank you Justin, The solder used on copper pipes is a rosin core solder
    not the type used on electricity which is a soft lead solder. Plumbing lead
    free solder requires a temperature of about 217 °C or greater to melt, and
    water is steam by that point.

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 5:43 pm
    Reply

  15. thank you for the kind words by the way!!

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 6:38 pm
    Reply

  16. Imagine a black pool picket fence made like those copper tubings to heat
    pool all day!

    Charles Wildbank
    May 25, 2014 at 6:53 pm
    Reply

  17. I have always wondered, how does this design not allow water to flow
    through the whole thing? several people have said the same thing and I just
    don’t get their points, I see that a serpentine seems better because its a
    single flow, but we all know water, especially water being pumped will go
    anywhere it can, so I still fail to see the difference, heat rises, hot
    water rises, so far I have has no issues.

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 7:27 pm
    Reply

  18. @89clavos THANK YOU!

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 8:16 pm
    Reply

  19. hey dude great job!!and pleaaasseee don’t listen to all this punks….you
    my friend are thinking outside the box !!!!…and is good to hear
    that..congrats

    YourPapiChulo73
    May 25, 2014 at 8:45 pm
    Reply

  20. I want to use your design to heat a 2nd water heater to heat my trailer at
    night. thanks

    scoobydog411
    May 25, 2014 at 9:25 pm
    Reply

  21. You need to change the flow lay out, instead of having T fittings you need
    it to be a single directional flow. That way the water is in the pipe for
    the maximum amount of time as well as an equal amount of time. As someone
    else has also said the pipe diamater needs to be much much smaller. In Heat
    reduction you want as much surface area as possible. The same principal
    works here, if you get pipe that is less then half of the diamater and get
    the flow going all in one direction = higher temp

    daheist
    May 25, 2014 at 10:24 pm
    Reply

  22. I LOVE it, it is inspiring. THANK YOU!!! Plz allow me to ask (NOT criticism
    but is curiosity): did you consider doing a serpentine flow so that all of
    the water had to flow thru all of your pipe? I am hoping to do that and
    your fantastic project has REALLY encouraged both me and others as well.
    THANK YOU (in advance) for your answer to my question and – KEEP UP YOUR
    WONDERFUL WORK!

    brotherRob3
    May 25, 2014 at 10:39 pm
    Reply

  23. thanks for the info = ). btw, keeping in mind that I cannot use a pressure
    tank (i can probably only use a bucket with a simple valve system,) would I
    need to lay the coiling flat to fill it up?

    Mcplumpyboy
    May 25, 2014 at 10:43 pm
    Reply

  24. Great video series; it’s really inspiring and I like your “Can Do” spirit!
    I’ve been eagerly waiting for “Solar Water Heater Build 9”, hoping to see
    the finished product in action and your comments 7 months into its
    operation. Best wishes, RL Atlanta, GA USA

    Roy Lewis
    May 25, 2014 at 11:03 pm
    Reply

  25. @magna59 i just dont understand why a person needs water over 140 degrees?
    for what?

    David W. Reed
    May 25, 2014 at 11:31 pm
    Reply

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