http://texasnaturalbuilders.info – Final temp test and we topped out at 115.9 degrees!! after 20 mins of sun in the evening! Tomorrow Scott will be testing t…
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25 Responses to Solar Water Heater build 8
awesome dude; I know you want to leave the back silver but It will reflect
the heat back to the atmosphere. By painting it black to your absorbing
more heat in a small area thus hotter water, trust me do a test and let me
know you should get at least 10 more degrees…… LATER FROM THE WEST COAST
I’m doing a project similar to this but it’s in an insulated box. How can I
use only gravity to build enough pressure to fill the copper tubing (it
will be wound, not soldered in my case) with water? thanks
somewhat similar yes, too bad that dr, stinky doesn’t show more info on how
he made it and temperatures, his system uses small 1/4″ flexible copper
also, his system might hold 1/2 a gallon, mine holds about 2 gallons. my
system also will be insulated and in an enclosed panel with a glass over
boosting the temperature.
Hi, have you tested what the temp would be while the incoming water is
coing thru the copper system? like can you take a shower without it going
cold after running incoming water thru it…thanks
@GreenSolarGarden this system wouldn’t be a direct use one, it is tied into
a storage tank that uses the thermo-siphon technique to continually heat
water through this manifold, the water you would use comes from the storage
tank itself. The system I am working on now uses a glycol solution in place
of the water and a coiled copper heat transfer inside the storage tank. I
wish I could find a welder/fabricator that would help me create a tank with
a removable heat transfer coil.
@Mcplumpyboy I would keep it copper just because but I would suppose any
thing would work as long as it was insulated, you could do either PVC or
cPVC with insulating sleeves over them, key is to no loose heat!!
@o0donnie0o, I use a 80 gallon water heater tank to store the hot water in,
I have been tinkering with removing all the water form this system and
using a Glycol solution in its place and coiling soft copper rolls around a
stripped 60 gallon tank, and allowing the thermal siphon effect control the
flow of the mixture, making it a closed loop heat transfer system instead
of direct use until theres no more hot water, its a work in progress I will
be posting more vids very soon!!!
@magna59 isnt it funny that no matter what aperson does to create a system
that working extremely well, another DOUCHE comes along and tries to walk
all over it……. All I can say is I enjoy my creation and it does what I
need, good luck with yours…
dear TheDudeRulez09 very much appriciated you friendly reaction.. and even
more you plans of showing the entire installation looking forward to your
future instructions and many thanks again even in advance I think you will
give a lot of good of worthy and valuable advices again an help a lot of
poeple to get there own efficient setups done. thanks again storhnz
Thank you Justin, The solder used on copper pipes is a rosin core solder
not the type used on electricity which is a soft lead solder. Plumbing lead
free solder requires a temperature of about 217 °C or greater to melt, and
water is steam by that point.
I have always wondered, how does this design not allow water to flow
through the whole thing? several people have said the same thing and I just
don’t get their points, I see that a serpentine seems better because its a
single flow, but we all know water, especially water being pumped will go
anywhere it can, so I still fail to see the difference, heat rises, hot
water rises, so far I have has no issues.
You need to change the flow lay out, instead of having T fittings you need
it to be a single directional flow. That way the water is in the pipe for
the maximum amount of time as well as an equal amount of time. As someone
else has also said the pipe diamater needs to be much much smaller. In Heat
reduction you want as much surface area as possible. The same principal
works here, if you get pipe that is less then half of the diamater and get
the flow going all in one direction = higher temp
I LOVE it, it is inspiring. THANK YOU!!! Plz allow me to ask (NOT criticism
but is curiosity): did you consider doing a serpentine flow so that all of
the water had to flow thru all of your pipe? I am hoping to do that and
your fantastic project has REALLY encouraged both me and others as well.
THANK YOU (in advance) for your answer to my question and – KEEP UP YOUR
WONDERFUL WORK!
thanks for the info = ). btw, keeping in mind that I cannot use a pressure
tank (i can probably only use a bucket with a simple valve system,) would I
need to lay the coiling flat to fill it up?
Great video series; it’s really inspiring and I like your “Can Do” spirit!
I’ve been eagerly waiting for “Solar Water Heater Build 9”, hoping to see
the finished product in action and your comments 7 months into its
operation. Best wishes, RL Atlanta, GA USA
awesome dude; I know you want to leave the back silver but It will reflect
the heat back to the atmosphere. By painting it black to your absorbing
more heat in a small area thus hotter water, trust me do a test and let me
know you should get at least 10 more degrees…… LATER FROM THE WEST COAST
doug daniels
May 25, 2014 at 10:07 am
I’m doing a project similar to this but it’s in an insulated box. How can I
use only gravity to build enough pressure to fill the copper tubing (it
will be wound, not soldered in my case) with water? thanks
Mcplumpyboy
May 25, 2014 at 10:23 am
somewhat similar yes, too bad that dr, stinky doesn’t show more info on how
he made it and temperatures, his system uses small 1/4″ flexible copper
also, his system might hold 1/2 a gallon, mine holds about 2 gallons. my
system also will be insulated and in an enclosed panel with a glass over
boosting the temperature.
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 11:18 am
Hi, have you tested what the temp would be while the incoming water is
coing thru the copper system? like can you take a shower without it going
cold after running incoming water thru it…thanks
Kevin Chedivillie
May 25, 2014 at 12:16 pm
@verybigego the highest temp so far was 140 degrees, that more than any
person can handle!!
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 12:43 pm
…they are replaced on these trucks every few years an a cost sweet f a to
buy …….second hand 50 $
o0donnie0o
May 25, 2014 at 1:10 pm
@GreenSolarGarden this system wouldn’t be a direct use one, it is tied into
a storage tank that uses the thermo-siphon technique to continually heat
water through this manifold, the water you would use comes from the storage
tank itself. The system I am working on now uses a glycol solution in place
of the water and a coiled copper heat transfer inside the storage tank. I
wish I could find a welder/fabricator that would help me create a tank with
a removable heat transfer coil.
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 1:57 pm
@Mcplumpyboy I would keep it copper just because but I would suppose any
thing would work as long as it was insulated, you could do either PVC or
cPVC with insulating sleeves over them, key is to no loose heat!!
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 2:33 pm
@o0donnie0o, I use a 80 gallon water heater tank to store the hot water in,
I have been tinkering with removing all the water form this system and
using a Glycol solution in its place and coiling soft copper rolls around a
stripped 60 gallon tank, and allowing the thermal siphon effect control the
flow of the mixture, making it a closed loop heat transfer system instead
of direct use until theres no more hot water, its a work in progress I will
be posting more vids very soon!!!
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 2:40 pm
@magna59 isnt it funny that no matter what aperson does to create a system
that working extremely well, another DOUCHE comes along and tries to walk
all over it……. All I can say is I enjoy my creation and it does what I
need, good luck with yours…
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 3:17 pm
You should be using a cup to catch the water. Drops cool as they fall, not
a true reading.
johnnnyreb51
May 25, 2014 at 3:58 pm
@TheDudeRulez09 what type of tubing would you recommend to connect to the
copper tubing and water source?
Mcplumpyboy
May 25, 2014 at 4:26 pm
dear TheDudeRulez09 very much appriciated you friendly reaction.. and even
more you plans of showing the entire installation looking forward to your
future instructions and many thanks again even in advance I think you will
give a lot of good of worthy and valuable advices again an help a lot of
poeple to get there own efficient setups done. thanks again storhnz
storhnz
May 25, 2014 at 5:08 pm
Thank you Justin, The solder used on copper pipes is a rosin core solder
not the type used on electricity which is a soft lead solder. Plumbing lead
free solder requires a temperature of about 217 °C or greater to melt, and
water is steam by that point.
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 5:43 pm
thank you for the kind words by the way!!
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 6:38 pm
Imagine a black pool picket fence made like those copper tubings to heat
pool all day!
Charles Wildbank
May 25, 2014 at 6:53 pm
I have always wondered, how does this design not allow water to flow
through the whole thing? several people have said the same thing and I just
don’t get their points, I see that a serpentine seems better because its a
single flow, but we all know water, especially water being pumped will go
anywhere it can, so I still fail to see the difference, heat rises, hot
water rises, so far I have has no issues.
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 7:27 pm
@89clavos THANK YOU!
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 8:16 pm
hey dude great job!!and pleaaasseee don’t listen to all this punks….you
my friend are thinking outside the box !!!!…and is good to hear
that..congrats
YourPapiChulo73
May 25, 2014 at 8:45 pm
I want to use your design to heat a 2nd water heater to heat my trailer at
night. thanks
scoobydog411
May 25, 2014 at 9:25 pm
You need to change the flow lay out, instead of having T fittings you need
it to be a single directional flow. That way the water is in the pipe for
the maximum amount of time as well as an equal amount of time. As someone
else has also said the pipe diamater needs to be much much smaller. In Heat
reduction you want as much surface area as possible. The same principal
works here, if you get pipe that is less then half of the diamater and get
the flow going all in one direction = higher temp
daheist
May 25, 2014 at 10:24 pm
I LOVE it, it is inspiring. THANK YOU!!! Plz allow me to ask (NOT criticism
but is curiosity): did you consider doing a serpentine flow so that all of
the water had to flow thru all of your pipe? I am hoping to do that and
your fantastic project has REALLY encouraged both me and others as well.
THANK YOU (in advance) for your answer to my question and – KEEP UP YOUR
WONDERFUL WORK!
brotherRob3
May 25, 2014 at 10:39 pm
thanks for the info = ). btw, keeping in mind that I cannot use a pressure
tank (i can probably only use a bucket with a simple valve system,) would I
need to lay the coiling flat to fill it up?
Mcplumpyboy
May 25, 2014 at 10:43 pm
Great video series; it’s really inspiring and I like your “Can Do” spirit!
I’ve been eagerly waiting for “Solar Water Heater Build 9”, hoping to see
the finished product in action and your comments 7 months into its
operation. Best wishes, RL Atlanta, GA USA
Roy Lewis
May 25, 2014 at 11:03 pm
@magna59 i just dont understand why a person needs water over 140 degrees?
for what?
David W. Reed
May 25, 2014 at 11:31 pm