I have a new fix tank that is cycling. My fish look sick. They have white spots on them, and they are dying.
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Question by memookie: I have a new fix tank that is cycling. My fish look sick. They have white spots on them, and they are dying.
It is a 55 gallon tank. The ammonia is high, so are the nitrites, nitrates, and everything else. They have white spots on them, and their gills look weird. My angel fish look like they have blood or something on their gills, and also in there eyes. I guess I did not notice the blood in their eyes before. Could just bee the color of their eyes. I have two filters running in there at the moment. A Emperor 400 and a cheap Aqua filter that came with the tank. Is it ok to treat for fungus, parasites, ammonia, and everything else at once? Also, should I put ammonia treatment in there since the tank is still cycling. Please help
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8 Responses to I have a new fix tank that is cycling. My fish look sick. They have white spots on them, and they are dying.
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you can treat everything at once as long as the products are of the same brand because the brand makes their products to that they are compatible with each other.
Dr. dope
March 2, 2013 at 7:52 pm
My suggestion would be to treat the water with tank buddy capsules, and add some stress coat to the water. Remove any dead fish asap, and don’t add any more till the water levels off. Do a google search on tank cycling. If you do cycle with fish, expect to lose some. I have lost about seven myself, but I had never had a tank before. I cycled fishless for a week, and added them slowly. Add one to two fish at a time, or the levels will spike. Definitely treat the ammonia. Talk to the fish people at petsmart. They helped me ALOT. Good luck!!!
cookyaustinchic
March 2, 2013 at 7:54 pm
You’ve got a lot of problems going on at once — The fish with the white spots have ‘ich’ — there’s meds easily purchased for this problem. The red gills are the worst thing you’ve got to deal with as that will need antibiotic treatment immediately or you’ll lose all your fish almost overnight. Try the various treatments for both those problems — if you lose your current stock, drain and refill the tank, and let the tank fully cycle till your water testing shows the proper levels before you put in new fish, this should eliminate having to go through this again. Also, don’t just go nuts buying fish, put in a couple, then a couple more, and get the tank balanced out that way without having a massive fish kill due to the new population. And do be sure to put in the pre-treatment liquid to get rid of any nitrates/nitrites/ammonia before stocking your tank and letting the water ‘rest’ for a couple of days.
zugunrube
March 2, 2013 at 8:21 pm
Sounds like you have ick…..call the store where you bought the tank and ask them how to proceed. I had ick, and raised the temp in the tank to 85 and used aquarium salt and formalin. But definitely ask for expert advice, preferably from trusted people, such as those where you bought your tank.
Don’t buy any more fish until this problem is solved. Take a water sample into the store and have them take a look too.
Liza
March 2, 2013 at 8:34 pm
Obviously the problems go beyond ich which can be treated. Take a sample of your water to a reputable aquarium with a list of the fish you have. They can test the water which has something(?) going on in it. Your description does not state a lot of obvious questions:
How long is the tank set up?
What kinds of gravel and ornaments do you have in the tank?
How long have you been running the two filters?
Have you tried filter resins to balance water condition?
Do you use charcoal, and did you rinse the charcoal thoroughly before entering it into your system.
Keep in mind you are creating an eco-system, and there are many ways to foul things up.
John D
March 2, 2013 at 9:27 pm
Treatment of Freshwater Ich, Ichthyophthirius.
It is believed that ich is present in all aquariums. Fish that have the disease exhibit small white dots about this size of a grain of salt. It is very contagious and it is fatal.
The best protection is a healthy tank with water changes done weekly or every other week with a gravel vac in the amount of 20-25% of the tank volume. Ich thrives in temperatures between 55-70°, making gold fish extremely vulnerable. Heating a tank to 72-73° is not too warm for gold fish and the susceptibility to ich will be dramatically reduced. A sound practice in fish keeping is to keep new fish in quarantine 4-7 days before adding them to your tank. The stress from being shipped from the wholesaler to the retailer, the stress of living in the retailers tanks which may be overcrowded and poorly maintained and the stress of being bagged up and taken to your home can weaken a fish and make it most vulnerable to ich and other ailments. Rather than introduce a sick fish to your aquarium, it is better to quarantine it until you know it is healthy.
When sound fish keeping practices are not enough, fortunately ich is also very easy to cure. Freshwater ich should not be confused with marine ich, Cryptocaryon irritans. Salt will weaken freshwater ich, obviously marine ich, being in salt water already, this is obviously not the same treatment.
First step:
20-25% water change with gravel vac. Most likely your poor water conditions contributed to the outbreak of ich.
Second step:
Raise temperature (no more than 1° per hour) to 85°.
Third step:
Add aquarium salt (not table salt) in the amount of one rounded tablespoon per 5 gallons. If you have scaleless fish such as loaches, catfish and “algae eaters”, reduce that to one rounded teaspoon per 5 gallons, as they don’t tolerate salt well.
http://www.aquariumpharm.com/en_us/productCategory.asp?categoryname=WaterConditioners
Fourth step:
After 24 hours, a second 20-25% water change. Add more salt. If you took 5 gallons out in the change, put another rounded tablespoon in.
Adjust for your situation.
Fifth step:
Wait 24 hours.
Sixth Step:
A third water change of 20-25% and replace salt removed.
If this does not cure the fish, and no signs of improvement show up yet, you may want to use a commercial ich curative, all of which require removal of the carbon from your filter, or the carbon will filter out the medication. You can continue with the cleaning process and maintain salt levels. Brackish water fish such as mollies need to have some salt in order to maintain good health. Most other fish benefit from a little aquarium salt as well.
One of the most common is copper sulfate medications like Aquarasol http://www.aq-products.com/APpro/aquarisol.htm
In more extreme cases, Malachite Green is very popular.
http://www.aq-products.com/APpro/quickcure.htm
In the case of scaleless fish such as loaches and catfish, a formaldehyde based Formalin
http://www.aq-products.com/APpro/formalin.htm
Be extremely careful with Formalin doses, many are super concentrated containing 37% formaldehyde, as 1 teaspoon treats 90 gallons.
Some are pre-diluted like Formalin-3, where the dosage is 1-2 teaspoons per 10 gallons. Formalin will kill the bacteria in your filter that break down the waste,
http://www.novalek.com/kordon/formalin/index.htm
Some products contain a combination of these medications. Read the labels and know what you are putting in your tank.
Good Luck
something_fishy
March 2, 2013 at 9:34 pm
Ichthyophthirius multifiliis is a ciliated protozoan which causes “Ich” or “white spot disease.” This disease is a major problem to aquarists and commercial fish producers world wide. Ichthyophthirius is an important disease of tropical fish, goldfish, and food fish. The disease is highly contagious and spreads rapidly from one fish to another. It can be particularly severe when fish are crowded. While many protozoans reproduce by simple division, a single “Ich” organism can multiply into hundreds of new parasites. This organism is an obligate parasite which means that it cannot survive unless live fish are present. It is capable of causing massive mortality within a short time. An outbreak of “Ich” is an emergency situation which requires immediate treatment: if left untreated, this disease may result in 100% mortality.
G.U.R
March 2, 2013 at 9:42 pm
That’s a NO on chemical treatments for ammonia. My guess is, that you stocked that tank full right from the get go, and that’s why your ammonia and nitrites are off the scale. I find it odd if your nitrates would be at this point, unless you have that comming from your tap water. So let’s tackle this, minus the links any schmo can pull, one step at a time.
First things first. That ammonia is your bigger danger. Ick isn’t to be taken lightly, but treating and curing is easier and far faster then taking care of the water chemistry, THE PROPER way. Tanks cycle out pretty much for the most part in 6-8 weeks. Problems here is that the stocking is far too high for this to happen. Consider ammonia comes in the tank four basic ways. Fish respiration, fish waste, excess food decay, and plant decay. Food issues directly you can control. Fish waste and respiration as well if you start with the right fish. Plant decay you can help with proper lighting and maintence.
A list of your total tank occupants will help. You may need to return some of them. First thing you really need to do, a sizeable water change to get that ammonia down. 50% immediately. Then tomorrow, take a reading and see how high/low it is, and if necessary effect another large change probably around 30-40% until you get your ammonia under 1.0 ppm. While you are at it, since you are showing high nitrates, run a check for nitrates in your tap water too.
Once those issues are under control, we can address your stocking and feeding. Then it’s time to tackle that Ick. Raise the temp up to about 83-85 and apply the appropriate medication. Add a dose of salt 1-2 teaspoons higher then you normally add with water changes. This should tackle the Ick problem in short order, but to ensure this doesn’t return and immune to the medication, carry the treatment out for 7 days. Also email magicman as he is the best person I know for treating disease and run this by him. If you have any other questions or issues, email me direct as well.
Side note, if you have an established tank, or access to one, get either the filter media or a good sized cup of it’s gravel and add that to your tank. That has the proper bacteria, live, in it and will speed up getting the water chemistry under control.
JV
Jon V
March 2, 2013 at 9:59 pm