DIY Home Made CIRCULATING Solar Water Heater
DIY Home Made Solar Circulating Water Heater. 12-10ft x1in and 24- 1in el’s PVC. Circulating solar water heater. If you like What you see please give it a thumbs up.
25 Responses to DIY Home Made CIRCULATING Solar Water Heater
Leave a Reply
“Ts” allow for the heat to passively move the water as it warms up instead of the pressure like you have ,,excellent build,,I like
Voltage449
November 27, 2011 at 3:55 am
how much are you saving on the electric bill? And are you using another tank or just one?
MegaDeathwarrant
November 27, 2011 at 4:33 am
I want to do something like this — does the PVC hold up? Any special cement or just the regular stuff? Wonder what’s better, this or coiled pipe?
I do have to deal with winter so i was actually thinking of a thermostatically controlled valve that would keep water out of it at night or freezing cloudy days.
marz3335
November 27, 2011 at 5:24 am
Cool, Do you have the outlet pipe connected dircect to your hot water line or to a collection tank? thanks
jwaflergmailcom
November 27, 2011 at 6:14 am
I made the identical system ( PVC and 90 degree elbows and all….setup on the roof of my home in Oviedo, Florida back in the 1980’s.
I only had it hooked directly to my clothes washer out on the patio.
(I didn’t know how to hook it directly up to my hot water heater.)
I never measured the temperature either…. but it was great for hot washing of our clothes.
Nice job !
Snailmailtrucker
November 27, 2011 at 6:53 am
T’s are needed for passive water heater system. Heated water expands a bit and therefore raises up and then goes in to the warm water tank. This system of yours requires pump to circulate the water.
oilinki3
November 27, 2011 at 7:14 am
@electronicdawg OMG~ OMG~
sheeplvl1
November 27, 2011 at 7:37 am
Yes but what is the ambient temp of the water before heating? I doubt if our 60 degree well water would warm sufficiently to use it on a continuous flow basis.
PinkiesParlour
November 27, 2011 at 7:39 am
@flamedrag18 It really depends on the outside ambient temperature. In the summer here in west Texas hot enough to scald you 180/200″. I heard my hot water heater relief valve peculating several times this year so maybe it was boiling. Hot, hot, hot.
electronicdawg
November 27, 2011 at 8:08 am
@electronicdawg ok, since I was wondering what the maximum temperature you could get out of this if you left the water in there for a while instead of it free flowing.
flamedrag18
November 27, 2011 at 8:17 am
@flamedrag18 I don’t know system wasn’t designed to be capped off. Not a water storage, it’s free flowing.
electronicdawg
November 27, 2011 at 8:34 am
continous flow? wow, that’s amazing since you don’t need to leave in the pipe to warm up, just turn the water on and presto, you got a nice shower. how much water does the system hold though if capped?
flamedrag18
November 27, 2011 at 8:41 am
The reason why people use the “T” is for easy draining of water which is most necessary in colder climates. If you wanted to be really simple, you don’t need to make a heat with joints at all. All you have to do is use coiled copper tube and paint it black.. But draining will be a pain. In climates when freezing temperatures is not an issue. Serpentine and continuous loop water heaters are more feasible.
wlomond
November 27, 2011 at 8:50 am
@foggymedia have it running into my water heater on city water pressure. Gets hot enough, I’m sure it would siphon.
electronicdawg
November 27, 2011 at 9:37 am
@godbluffvdgg It gets directly fed into the water heater, using the pressure relief valve of it. If you laid it flat and boxed it in you could fill it half way with sand to act as an insulator, may not freeze at night that way..
electronicdawg
November 27, 2011 at 9:46 am
@electronicdawg I wonder if instead of draining it for the winter, Back feed it with the hot water. Also a check valve should be used on the house side. Being a builder, I would suggest to create a dormer on your roof with insulated walls and roof rafters. Clear skylites or caulked in Lexan for the roof would allow solar transference in the winter and would make a more esthetic covering. You can make it removable by installing galvanized metal angles under shingles and bolt in to frame. peace
godbluffvdgg
November 27, 2011 at 10:17 am
@themarkmarcus Thank’, have a great build. Don’t forget to used compressed air when you drain it in winter. Blow it clear of water so it doesn’t freeze.
electronicdawg
November 27, 2011 at 11:13 am
aw man! that’s great! i’m gonna build one just like that! i like the idea with the elbows instead of the tees! good job buddy!
themarkmarcus
November 27, 2011 at 11:45 am
Thanks for the great video!
Do you have the angle the set up for the thermosiphon effect, or is it fine to just have the high point of the exit pipe?
foggymedia
November 27, 2011 at 12:38 pm
@wilatemodel Thank’s
electronicdawg
November 27, 2011 at 1:22 pm
…WELL DONE MATE!!!…CHEERS!!!
wilatemodel
November 27, 2011 at 1:50 pm
@124php Well I guess you could seeing this contraption delivers continues hot water with that configuration. As long as the sun is shinning
electronicdawg
November 27, 2011 at 2:25 pm
Nice DIY. Do you mean 150 Fahrenheit ? How much liter can you heat. For example could you fill a bathtub with it ? I ask it honestly, cause I am looking to build one of my own for at least take a warm bath (with solar heated water)/
124php
November 27, 2011 at 2:39 pm
@mmaghfai Hmm that’s a good idea
electronicdawg
November 27, 2011 at 2:54 pm
@electronicdawg Awesome man. Thank you very much for posting your system for us, and also for sharing your ideas. Please ignore the haters, anytime someone shares knowledge and ideas humanity moves forward.
enticed2zeitgeist
November 27, 2011 at 3:02 pm