Aquaponics Fish Tank Heater
This is Madmax478 First things First. Thank Bob for all your help and here is a copy of the video. My Camera work on this project is not the best I have ever…
25 Responses to Aquaponics Fish Tank Heater
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thanks for the comments and know how to… we all feed each other
fiberinspector
March 22, 2013 at 4:23 pm
yes makes sense
fiberinspector
March 22, 2013 at 4:41 pm
Do you see what I’m saying now the ground wire needs to be in contact to the water at all times in case the element thats sticking out into the water is damaged…
David Young
March 22, 2013 at 5:38 pm
All you have to do is take a amp reading with a clamp on meter then take the amps the volt… eg 15 amps x 120 volts is 1800 watts
David Young
March 22, 2013 at 6:38 pm
Thanks David, Iunderstand
fiberinspector
March 22, 2013 at 6:50 pm
No what your not understanding a water heater element can and will burn a hole though the element Ya know the metal thing in contact with the water hint thats how they go bad… Well once it burns a hole it then comes into contact with the water which will can do 2 things apply 120v or make a open circuit and when you touch the water you become the neutral return…Which you will be hit with the FLA…
David Young
March 22, 2013 at 7:40 pm
That is why I said to put the ground wire down where the element was wired , so that if it got into contact with the water it would trip the GFI, not taking it as your are busting my balls. guess I needed to be a little more percise.
fiberinspector
March 22, 2013 at 8:30 pm
Yes cause as you have it the ground is sealed from the water and if the element goes bad and electrify the water whats going to ground it out to trip the GFI? So yes head of the bolt sticking out to contact the water and I would use SS so no rust can happen to create a barrier…. I’m not trying to bust your balls man I’m a licensed electrician and like to sleep at night and know what I did wont kill someone by shock or fire….
David Young
March 22, 2013 at 8:48 pm
with the head of the bolt in contac with the water?
fiberinspector
March 22, 2013 at 9:27 pm
trip the gfi or the breaker I would hate to see a home owner experiences people get killed over a tank of fish….But other than those 2 issues good design…
David Young
March 22, 2013 at 10:00 pm
16:38 you said around 2000watts which I got the half part…The other issues I see is that you coiled the ground wire up the ground wire needs to be in contact to trip out the GFI…If no water gets inside the the tube and the element fails the water can be electrified and could kill someone if they got scared from the shock and fell in the water…For the ground wire drill a hole near the element put a bolt in silicone it then put the ground on the bolt fasten with a nut if it fails it will
David Young
March 22, 2013 at 10:18 pm
David, thanks for the info. I wish I had the equipment to know exactly how much wattage a 220 vt heater on 120 pulls. My best guess was a little less than half. I do agree that a relay drawing more amps than its rated for will cause the failure. I have mine set at 75 degrees all winter and have not varied more than one degree, even when some nights hit 16 degrees. Bottom line is I know my fish are happy, and eating and my green house looks like a jungle.
fiberinspector
March 22, 2013 at 10:20 pm
which that would be under the 16 FLA rating of the unit….
David Young
March 22, 2013 at 10:35 pm
So my guess you are getting around 1500 watts which is a 12.5 amp draw
David Young
March 22, 2013 at 11:28 pm
Well I was going off what you said was 2250 watts(output) divided by 120volts (inpit) is 18.75 amps draw… I’m a PLC electrician lol so I was doing the math after I ordered the controller… I was going to do a PLC controller and have it setup to wifi to my lap top but this is a cheaper way to set one up….. But from building robots and automation lines I know for a fact a relay drawing more amps then rated for will have premature failure…
David Young
March 22, 2013 at 11:38 pm
Davis I kniow of at least six of these in use and all have been performing perfectly. The 2250 was a rough guess. It does work.
fiberinspector
March 23, 2013 at 12:17 am
WHAT - no clip at the end of it in your tank ?! … DUDE!
Ryan Cook
March 23, 2013 at 12:25 am
Neal, Thanks, since I have built these they seem to work great. I have even built a few for some commerical fish producers and they are just thrilled with the performence.
fiberinspector
March 23, 2013 at 1:06 am
Thanks for your video, I made a similar heater after watching. My 110 gallon tank (with 2 4’x6′ tables) is in an uninsulated garage and my mr heater propane refused to light last night. Yesterday was in the 40s, it was in the mid 20 last night, no external heat – my water temp this morning, in a warmer than outside garage, was 65 degrees. The tilapia are looking forward to spring! Thanks again for sharing your design and build.
Neal Madden
March 23, 2013 at 1:13 am
Joeperezcpr, Home depot, Lowes. most harware stores like Ace Hardware.
fiberinspector
March 23, 2013 at 1:25 am
Can you give me an idea where to get the 1″ x 2″ adapter
joeperezcpr
March 23, 2013 at 2:00 am
So, this is what Santa does after Christmas?
Ralph Hart
March 23, 2013 at 2:20 am
Ideally you should use a stainless steel element. Most are nickle plated. DO not use any bare copper elements.
fiberinspector
March 23, 2013 at 2:35 am
what about the metal from the element? is it not bad for the fish??
remache1987
March 23, 2013 at 3:17 am
DO NOT COVER THE ELEMENT with sillly con lol. Put the silicon only over the two terminials that you wire the element to the power. The heating element should be left alone. Hope that clarifies that. If not let me know and we will attack it from another angle. Thanks for the question.
fiberinspector
March 23, 2013 at 4:16 am