DIY Solar Batch Water Heater Build Part 4 of 4
Working well at 139F degrees in March 2011, Mistakes to watch out for when designing the system.
24 Responses to DIY Solar Batch Water Heater Build Part 4 of 4
Leave a Reply
Working well at 139F degrees in March 2011, Mistakes to watch out for when designing the system.
Yes, I did insulate the piping coming back from the solar batch heater going to the main water heater in the ground as well as inside the house. But I have found since that an air gap putting it inside another pipe would have been much better. You would need to use a larger pipe which would be water tight like 4 inch PVC or similar sealed up at the ends to prevent water infiltration. The heavy dirt placed against the insulation still draws away the heat.
Alvin Shepherd
April 6, 2013 at 4:17 pm
did you insulate the piping going to the house. i would at least insulate the out going piping to the house. even at 1 foot deep the soil can draw heat due to the moisture content of the soil much like hypothermia. use the thickest foam rap you can find or make your own from styrofoam. taping it up water tight, all the way from the outdoor enclosure to the internals of your house.
kf4dcy
April 6, 2013 at 4:22 pm
Yes, I’m using a batch unit as a preheater instead of a cold inlet. However I have hot water circulation which provides heat to my home. It circulates to a coil in my main furnace, then to a 110 Gallon storage tank and back to the 40 gallon water heater. I’ve only had the system up for about 2 months now but it looks like I should have about a 60 dollar a month gas bill for 1750 sq feet of heated space. One circ pump, two thermostats, with two fans for 2 zones
Alvin Shepherd
April 6, 2013 at 5:13 pm
Thanks. Good video. I like that you list your mistakes. It’s part of learning for all of us.
I thought batch water heater are not for circilating hot watch but to preheat water before it gets to the other hot water heater.
Dale Burrell
April 6, 2013 at 6:10 pm
I wish I could have someone make one of these for me. I’m not handy!
JABBERWACKIN
April 6, 2013 at 6:51 pm
Mirror will add heat it will make a big difference
spirituallypeace
April 6, 2013 at 7:39 pm
Colorado Energy (ORG) has some good information on R-Values I cant include the actual link here but if your interested from their Home Page, go to “Professionals Corner” then “Useful Stuff” then R-Value table. They have some of the best info I’ve found for all types of material. Of special interest was the R-Factor of a window film vs. double or triple pane windows. Bascially a film will do more than double or even triple pane windows will at a much reduced cost.
Alvin Shepherd
April 6, 2013 at 7:51 pm
foam insulation on pipes typically cuts heat loss by 70% and everything apart from where you’d like the heat to be radiated should be covered in it, even inside the house.
brendanski2
April 6, 2013 at 8:48 pm
Not true, I thought it was true, I found some good info from ASHRAE (Amerivan Society of Heating Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers) who did a study on ground temperatures. The study shows that ground temperature does not remain constant until 30 feet deep. Not only that but different areas have different temps. Alaska at 40F while Malaysia at 80F. At 15 feet temps vary by 5F from winter to summer, 10F at 10 ft and 15F at 5 ft. Atlanta where I live has a constant of 67F at 30 ft.
Alvin Shepherd
April 6, 2013 at 9:38 pm
Yes, this was my mistake when insulating my return water pipe in the ground. I have since learned that this air gap is true with all insulation just like a double pane window. The R-factor is increased more by adding an air gap than by doubling the insulation thickness.
Alvin Shepherd
April 6, 2013 at 10:18 pm
Make sure you allow for air pockets in your insulation layer, put it on in 3 layers and it will stay hot even under the ground. The pockets act buffers from the 50 degree ground temperature! The space need only be a 1/3 inch in between each layer of insulation around the pipe coming from the solar water heater to the tank in the house.
pro311031
April 6, 2013 at 10:45 pm
the ground is 50 degrees all year long
pro311031
April 6, 2013 at 11:29 pm
I have a tank striped, holes patched and ready for paint in my yard right now. I’m thinking about two tanks, leaving one insulated (top tank) to maintain the heat over night, and doubling the amount of hot water. We’ll see… but let me know about your water sample temp at the tank. Good video.
Prancinglion1
April 7, 2013 at 12:14 am
No I have’nt, good idea, I will let you know…Thanx
I am getting water temps regularly in the house over 95 degrees though. Lasting for about 10 gallons then slowly falling. So I’m still pretty happy with it still.
Alvin Shepherd
April 7, 2013 at 1:03 am
Have you done a physical temperature check of the water in your tank? It could be the water is not reaching the full 130′ tempurature of the box. Perhaps you could take a water sample into a container at the batch heater, and check the temp.
Prancinglion1
April 7, 2013 at 2:02 am
11:59 hahaha
yeahlikethefish
April 7, 2013 at 2:37 am
Thanks for the input, I was really worried about coming home to water running all over the front yard from overheating. But its been in over a year now after a record summer last year and it never got above about 160F. The outdoor temperature doesnt seem to effect it as much as a good sunny day as long as its sunny it will heat. Its been in over a year now and its been no problem and so simple. The only thing I have to do is flip the lid closed at night and open before I go to work.
Alvin Shepherd
April 7, 2013 at 3:15 am
I heat up bricks on my gas grill and bring them in my house to save money.
Just joking. You can do a few things for over heating. A large cooling thermostat to circulate the water (turn on a pump) or a smaller thermostat to turn on a fan and cool the cabinet!
kenmorto
April 7, 2013 at 3:23 am
Yes, In hind sight I understand that 4″ corogated abs plastic like used in the ground to drain water away from your house will provide an air gap which actually provides a great benefit in insulating. Much the same way double pane glass provides an air gap, and this type material is also very low cost.
Alvin Shepherd
April 7, 2013 at 3:50 am
My sugestion , move your solar box closer to the house , get some 2 or 3″ abs pipe in 4 ft. lengths , put your hot water line to the house inside the abs and then use spray insulation inside the abs to surround the actual water line ,I think that would work good .
88s10Durango
April 7, 2013 at 4:17 am
Yeap, I’ve insulated all the pipes inside the house that I can get to. As well as putting an insulation blanket around the water heater. I’m heating over 600 sq. feet of my house now using my gas water heater with 2 coils and a circulation pump and so far this winter I’ve not had a gas bill over 50 bucks and I keep the thermostat set at 70 all day everyday. Its 20F degrees outside this morning so far I’m happy with the result.
Alvin Shepherd
April 7, 2013 at 4:55 am
You’re probably loosing most of your heat where the piping is exposed and travels inside along the and is not insulated. You showed your inside house temperature is only 66 degrees and the length of exposed pipe is significant.
Rattlerjake1
April 7, 2013 at 5:50 am
Very Nice sir.
droplano
April 7, 2013 at 6:30 am
very good results.
centervilletn
April 7, 2013 at 6:42 am