I want to learn more about miniature goats?
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Question by Caitlin: I want to learn more about miniature goats?
I Would want to learn more about miniature goats i have chickens and ducks and i really want a miniature goat but i wanna learn more about them and how to care for them if you have a miniature goat can you tell me about them or if you know stuff about miniature goats Thanks.
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2 Responses to I want to learn more about miniature goats?
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They are usually referred to as pygmy goats. There are many different breeds. They cost about $ 75 for a wether (no nuts), to $ 350 for one that can breed. They live about 10 years. They are very tough, they will not take crap from a dog. I bought one for a friend so I know a little about them as I researched them before getting it. If you do facebook, see about joining this group. It’s in PA, but the people n it are cool and very knowledgable. http://www.facebook.com/groups/palivestockfarmgardenandpets/?bookmark_t=group
Artemisc
March 12, 2013 at 4:32 am
There are two main breeds of miniature goats – Nigerian Dwarf goats and Pygmies. (Although, you can also have Nigerian/Pygmy crosses, and some people breed larger goats with miniatures to produce mini versions of the big breeds).
Both Nigerian Dwarfs and Pygmies originate from Africa. Although many people think they are similar, there are some distinct differences between the two breeds. Nigerian Dwarfs are a miniature dairy goat, bred to produce milk, while Pygmies are bred for meat. Nigerian Dwarfs are more proportional; a Nigerian Dwarf is meant to look like a large goat, except in miniature, while Pygmies are stockier, often referred to as a “barrel on legs.” I find that Nigerian Dwarfs tend to be a bit smaller, although this varies with the individual goat. Nigerian Dwarfs are more colorful than pygmies – they can be any combination of white, tan, brown, black, gray, etc., while pygmies are generally black, white, or gray with a few black markings. Nigerian Dwarfs can also have blue eyes.
Goats need their hooves trimmed once a month, and they are herd animals so you need to get at least two. Beginning goat owners should get either does (female goats) or whethers (castrated male goats). Do not get bucks (intact male goats) because they stink and can be aggressive. If you decide to breed your does, its easier and cheaper to bring them to someone else’s farm to get them bred and pay a stud fee.
Goats need a small barn or shed to sleep in and go in during the day. It needs to be dry and protected from the rain and bad weather. Goats hate getting wet. It should be well ventilated so that the goats don’t get too hot or stuffy. I prefer to use straw as bedding, although people also use wood chips. The barn door should be able to close so that the goats are protected from predators during the night. It is also a good idea to have a couple of extra stalls so you can separate a goat if she is sick.
Goats need a good quality hay – grass or timothy is fine. Do not alfalfa hay unless you have milking does – it can cause dietary problems with dry goats and bucks/whethers. Also, do not feed hay with lots of clover during breeding season – clover has estrogen, which acts like a birth-control pill for does and reduces sperm count in bucks. Young goats really don’t need grain as long as they’re a good weight. I give my young Nigerian Dwarfs only a handful of grain. Milking/pregnant does need grain, and I feed Poulin Sweet Goat Feed. Breeding bucks should get a feed that contains ammonium chloride, to protect against urinary calculi. All goats need clean, fresh water. I give them warm water during the winter and cool water during the summer. Goats also need a type of minerals – either a mineral block or mineral powder.
L
March 12, 2013 at 4:42 am